Enter Goddess of Wealth.

Today is day three of Tihar or Deepawali, which is the most important festival of the year for Nepal and India. It's on par with Christmas. Each day of the festival honors a different animal, some for dark reasons. On the first day of this festival you can see seeds and breadcrumbs scattered throughout the streets of the city. I noticed this but passed it off just as trash. Though this is a food offering for crows, as they are beleived to be sent by the god Yama, the God of Death, crows are the messangers of death. Day two is festival of the dogs. Dogs are honored with tika powder and garlands of flowers. This must be a considerable surprise to most Nepali dogs, who are usually honoured with no more than the occasional kick, but the fact that in the afterworld it is dogs who guide departed souls across the river of the dead must not be forgotten. Today, Deepwali, is the day when Lakshmi (Vishnu's consort and the Goddess of wealth) comes to visit every home that has been suitably lit for her presence. No-one likes to turn down a visit from the Goddess of Wealth and so homes throughout the country are brightly lit with candles and lamps. The effect is highlighted because Deepwali falls on the new moon day.

Feeling a bit under the weather today I decided to lie low and relax some. So after a nice breakfast with some friends at the Guest House, I strolled down some unexplored streets and alleys away from Thamel. I am amazed at how Nepali life goes on, and it seems that the entire city relies on each other and everyone has a friendly face. Wandering into areas that tourists do not go can be interesting, and the locals give you a look like you really don't belong here, but a simple bow and Namaste' brings a friendly smile to their face. I took random turns and aimlessly wandered down small alleyways and hobbit sized archways. I was shocked to emerge into a courtyard that had a very large Stupa in the middle surrounded by rows of Buddhist prayer wheels. This spot is not listed in the guide book, and so I was quite happy to discover it. I crossed the courtyard and entered into the very busy and congested marketplace. Fruit and vegitable salesmen and women were shouting and bargaining. And everyone was stocking up on flowers, candles, and firecrackers for the festival tonight. Hoards of little childeren are seen walking from storefront to storefront singing childish songs, hoping that maybe the shopkeeper will give them a rupee to move on.